Also did this.
Notes before reading this.
See these references and read them thoroughly before attempting this:
http://my350z.com/forum/drift/399634-drifting-101-a-guide-insight-to-drifting-the-z.htmlhttp://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension/504240-dual-rear-calipers-ebrake.htmlhttp://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension/504660-hydraulic-handbrake-install.htmlhttp://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?4Keep in mind that there are a few ways to install a hydraulic ebrake, this is simply the method I chose. This method is not necessarily the best, but I felt it was the best for me. The method you choose should only be done after thorough research done by yourself on the benefits and disadvantages of each setup.
CAUTION: This modification requires tampering with the factory brake lines and design. If you do not feel you are mechanically inclined enough to perform something like this, then don't. Take it to a reputable shop that can do it for you. Any incorrect step can result in dangerous results that can pontentially damage your car, or worse, put you in danger.
CAUTION: Make sure to adhere to the FSM's specifications for brake fluid and follow it's directions for bleeding your brakes.
CAUTION: This disables ABS
NOTE: These are not specific instructions on how to do this modification, I am simply showing how I went about it. How you go about this modification is solely up to you and you take all risk in attempting it.
So I finally got my Powered by Max SLC hydraulic ebrake in. The OEM parking brake on the Z33 is just that.... for parking. It won't lock the rear wheels at all while moving, it will only slow them down at best, even when pressing in the clutch and turning the steering wheel. I replaced the stock brake shoes with P.Mu "drift" brake shoes a couple of years ago but they only lasted for one event and then just reverted to something exactly like stock. Years later I want to improve my driving with more techniques but without an ebrake that can lock the rear wheels I felt extremly limited. That's where this thing comes in.
I started out with the hydro. It didn't come with any instructions or anything helpful for installation. But fortunately I had been pestering my friend Kim (Ktran), who also has a Z with a ksport hydro ebrake (now upgraded to a Wilwood cylinder), about information pertaining to installing this thing. After scouring forums and studying the FSM I had a pretty good idea on how to go about this.
The first step was to have two lines made. One line comes from the secondary port of the master cylinder to the inlet of the hydro cylinder (the port on the end), the other goes from the outlet of the hydro (the port closest to the frame) to the secondary port of the abs block. These two lines replace the factory hard line that goes from the secondary outlet of the master cylinder to the secondary port of the abs block, tying in the hydraulic ebrake to the braking system (hence the hydro being an "in-line" setup).
First you have to get an idea of how long you need the lines. I just used some string and zipties and threaded them from where I wanted to mount the hydro in the car to where the lines need to go in the engine bay. Then you have to get your lines made to length and have the right size fittings fitted to the lines. Luckily there is an amazing shop in town that specializes in things like this, I had both lines made in a few minutes (after a little begging and pleading that I needed the lines done in a day lol). I had them remove the stock fittings from the secondary hardline I removed to use for the lines going back to the master and abs block, they used all new fittings for the ports in the hydro cylinder. The lines were about $80, which isn't bad considering other people pay from $120-$160 for their lines.
After installing the lines into your hydro it would be in your best interest to bench bleed the hydraulic cylinder. It saves a huge amount of time and effort. All I did was pour brake fluid into a crappy pot and actuate the hydro. Pretty simple process, just pump until you don't see any more bubbles. Make sure that the lines and pot are higher than the hydro cylinder so the air can actually escape, you also want to make sure that both lines stay submerged in brake fluid.
The next step was to actually install the lines and remove the factory hardline. Easy enough, just have to make sure you don't mix up the lines, again zipties came to the rescue lol. I just put a ziptie on the line going into the inlet side of the hydro that goes to the master cylinder to identify it after threading it through the car.
I decided not to drill anything and just use whatever factory holes were in the chassis. I also wanted to keep my stock parking brake for parking duties. So I decided to modify the shifter hole and route my lines through there.
Down through the tranny tunnel.
Past the transmission.
Over the front subframe.
Up through a hole in the driver side fender well that goes into the brake sides secondary firewall.
Line that goes from the master to the hydro.
Line that goes from the hydro to the secondary port of the abs block.
(Both lines were secured away from moving parts and high heat areas with hose guides and angle iron and wrapped in chaffe wrap or rubber coolant hose near high vibration/tight clearance areas)
Next step is to swap the lines at the abs block. This step is the most complicated part and easiest to mess up but is actually annoyingly simple. On my base model all of the lines are marked on the abs block (FL, RR, RL, FR). The primary and secondary lines coming from the master cylinder to the abs block control these lines in an X pattern. Meaning the primary controls the FL and RR and the secondary controls the FR and RL brakes. In order to have the hydro ebrake lock the rear brakes you have to change this setup. So now you want to swap the hardlines at the abs block so that the secondary controls the two rear brakes and the primary controls the two front brakes. Of course in doing this you are also disabling your ABS (you need to unplug it or you will have some major problems).
(DO NOT!!! I REPEAT!! DO NOT SWAP THE LINES THAT ARE REMOVED IN THIS PICTURE!!! YOU WANT TO SWAP THE LINES THAT ARE STILL INSTALLED IN THIS PICTURE, THE RR AND FR!! YOU ARE WARNED.)
After this your brakes need to be bled of course, and of course you still need to follow the FSM. Make sure to check for leaks at all of the brake lines you removed and reinstalled including the ones in the hydraulic ebrake.
Before you actually install the hydro into the car it would be in your best interest to double check to make sure you got your lines correct. If you remember my caution from earlier, this is why. I'm not too big headed to admit that I made a mistake, I just so happened to get confused about swapping lines on the abs block. I swapped the lines so that the secondary controlled the front brakes instead of the rear. This means that when the hydro is pulled the front brakes lock, AKA catastrophe if done while trying to initiate. We checked this while the car was still in the air on a hunch and happened to catch this issue before it was too late. Spin the front wheels (one at a time, or two at a time if you have enough people to check both at the same time and another to pull the lever), if the lines were swapped improperly one (or both) the front wheels will abruptly stop spinning. Don't be overly cocky about your work and check this regardless of how much you know, it only takes a second.
After bleeding your brakes, checking for leaks, and precautionary checks of the hydro the next step is to actually install the hydro.
There are a lot of options about where you want this installed, all depends on your preference and what you want to compromise. This is the spot I chose to have my hydro installed.
Mock up how you want the hydro positioned, check clearance and all that jazz.
I decided to have mine welded in (they can also be bolted in, there are holes in the bottom of the hydro's frame for bolts, but the reinforcement plate that's provided, or of some kind, should be used for ridgidity and added strength), so I invited a friend with a welder over =).
The clearances in here are pretty crazy, we used a dremel and tin snips for most of it. Had to cut a slit in the shifter boot and snip a portion of the shifter boot frame out in order to clear the brake lines. There's a tad bit more noise from the undercarriage, but it's not even noticeable to anyone but me so I guess that's good. Not sure about how well it seals tire smoke, I'll provide that info after the event this weekend.
(the welds were cleaned up and the area was wiped down and painted so the final product under the panels looks much better than this lol)
